Choke Question?

[Bullreds & Greenheads]

Yeah, I know. Some damn newbie.

Anyway, here goes. I have 2 aftermarket chokes. One a Berreta light modified choke, and the other a Briley "Duck" choke. The package for the Briley reads, "Made especially for ducks using all types of non-toxic shot."

Do any of you have any experience with these chokes? How do you like them? And what the heck is a "duck" choke anyway? LM, M, IM, or tighter?

Thanks in advance.

[Greenwoodfarmboy]

I don't know what a duck choke is but your making this to complicated just go get you a modified or an improved modified and be done with it.

GFB.

[Anatidae]

According to their website (which, btw, doesn't tell you what the constrictions are for each choke), they make 10 chokes for various game in a camo pattern. They designate them as Deer (rifled choke), quail, dove, rabbit, duck, goose, turkey, hevi-shot turkey, etc. The two most expensive being deer and HS turkey (the two games that folks think 'require' a custom choke to start with......don't think that's not by design......marketing sells) 'Not hammering you for buying one......just trying to reason the marketing strategy.

Now, if I had to buy 10 chokes @ $40 a pop, to shoot 10 different species of varmit or fowl, I'd also be the kinda guy that insisted on having the extended portion of my custom choke tube camo-ed to match my camo-ed gun........and be able to afford the luxury of being 'eccentric'. I'd probably be somebody that wouldn't psychologically be ABLE to use a 'duck' choke while hunting rabbits, either......... cause I'm NOT hunting ducks.......or anything else. My brain cna't process stuff like that...... 'would just confuse the issue.

So given the order in which the chokes appeared on their list (obviously from most open to the thightest.....except for maybe the HS turkey), I'd say your choke is probably LM. But if you want to know for SURE, call Briley at (713) 932-6995.

[GulfCoast]

Your "duck" choke is a Light Modified with a nifty camo band.

[Bustin' Ducks]

I hear ya on the confusion..Here's one for ya....I bought a Preston Pittman Full choke...said it was for steel shot bismuth etc etc...THEN on the back of the pkg it stated NOT to shoot steel shot thru the choke....ugghhhh...I called them and they said it was a generic warning on the back NOT to worry about it...it was OK to shoot steel thru the choke....I dunno...but ti does work....and well I might add...

[Bama Duck]

I agree with GFB, you don't need those fancy chokes just stick with a modified. Besides in order to get a good idea you need to pattern the choke. Just because it says it is a "Duck Choke", M, or LM on the package that doesn't mean that is what it will be in your gun. Every barrel is different you might buy a choke that says it is a LM but in your gun it is actually an IC. You need to mic your barrel to determing the size before you put the choke in and then mic it after to determine the actual choke it should be used for. I am no expert (my father loves this stuff) but I think the size breaks down like this: <.005 = Cylinder; .005 - .008 = Skeet; .008 - .015 = Improved Cylinder; .015 - .020 = Modified.
But like I said the best way is just to pattern your gun to find the best combination of chokes and shells.

[Bullreds & Greenheads]

Thanks for the info guys.

I guess the reason I've gone a little nuts with this is, that before last season, I had rarely hunted ducks. I grew up shooting lead through the chokes that came with my gun. Busted clays, doves, rabbits, squirrels, even damn nutria without a problem. Usually shot modified or improved cylinder.

Some buddies of mine got me to go duck hunting with them several times last year. Really got into the enjoyment of it all, you know? It wasn't the best duck hunting, according to my friends, but it struck a chord with me and I think I'm hooked.

Anyway, what ticked me off was having ducks come within easy range, shoot at them, and then watch them fly away. What the hell was going on? Heck, I'm a pretty good shot with clays and doves. What's with all this missing all of a sudden?

Trying to find answers to these questions led me to this site.

I've learned alot on here. For example:
1. Bigger isn't better. I was shooting 3 1/2 inch #3's last year while pass shooting ducks. I don't plan on doing that again.
2. I'll definitely pattern my gun this year. Just cause it shoots lead good doesn't mean it will handle steel or anything else the same way.
3. And use the search function on this site. There is a lot of great info throughout this forum.

Thanks for helping out a newbie, guys. Heck, in a few more years I hope to be an "old veteran" at this.

[BigMike]

Newbie here as well, but you are right on with your # 2. Pattern those shells....steel will shoot differently than lead, and different guns will pattern various loads differently. I have tried reloading my own steel and most all of the factory loads out there. Quite honestly, my Benelli shoots Kent Faststeel 3" # 3 better than anything through a factory modified choke. Plus....you can usually find Kent's fairly cheap. A friend of mine has tried to tell me that investing $40 for a Briley choke will help even more, but I seem do do just as well as he with what I am using.....whatever works for you is the best I feel.

[crow]

BibMike, I've been huntin' these critters a long time. I still have those "ghost ducks" that fly out of the hole even after I have killed them dead. I know they have to be dead cause I shot them 2-3 times! Dangdest thing you ever saw! Down right scary at times. Seems to be more of them right at the beginning of the season though!

[mississippi_duc_htr]

Well my first year of ducking. I missed ducks left right and sidewise. I couldnt figure it our as I was like you a fairly decent shot. I was shootin a steel MOD. choke and all but was still missing easy shots. I could get those on the passby shots every now and then.I would burn a feather or 2 every now and then on the cupped and commited but wasnt puttin too many on the water. My buddy finally ask me are you leading them boys on the way down. I hadnt really thought it too much. I started putting the bead on em and started bustin some duck butt. Then I changed too a browning full shot tube, and had too let them ole boys get up and going away before I would shoot so I wouldnt blow em up so bad. My point is are you leading them like in dove hunting or skeet. Might just be a error on your part in shooting. If your shooting off a ground thrower set it too throw em up and out.Get out there and try shooing some clays on the way down @ about 30 yds. with some steel and see what you hit. Just a suggestion........................

[Greenwoodfarmboy]

I f yu do all this right and are still haveing problems hitting ducks just wait cause if there committed wait for them to approach the spread to land and as there just hanggin there waste there booty, thats about the only way I hit ducks consistently last season.

GFB.

[Anatidae]

3 most important parts of shooting....
1) Gun has to fit......user must be consistent with mounting
2) Stay on the gun......keep your cheek on the stock 'cause that's
your 'rear sight'. If IT moves, so does your point of impact.
3) Eyes must remain 'centered' (focused) on the primary target
(duck).

NEVER look back at your barrel. The only time you should look at your barrel is to check alignment when you're trying to see if a gun 'fits' or not.

If you look back at your barrel while in the act of shooting, then your brain can't tell your hands where to move the gun to be able to hit the target, 'cause you're not looking at the target.....you're looking at your barrel, instead.

When your eyes focus on a primary target (barrel), your secondary target (duck) becomes a double image.......'brain can't process that visual signal to tell your hands which one to move to. This is called 'crossfiring'.

Most misses on close targets occur because the shooter picks his head up off the stock so he can see the target better.......(easy thing to do when you got a big'ole 'Fathead' hovering at 15yds). Most misses on long targets occur when you try to 'measure' the lead (by looking back at the bead) or not completing the visual act of shooting (following the target with your eyes AFTER you pull the trigger). Visual 'follow-thru' is justa as important as following-thru with your gun, 'Cause when your eyes stop, so does your gun.....the result is shooting behind the target.

'Hope this 'minutia' helps.