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Working with fiberglass

Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 10:54 pm
by novacaine
I need some help from the experts or direct me to a how to site for a project. I am wanting to make a 1 man pit blind out of these metal racks that you see used for hauling chemicals. I think they are around 4ftx4ftx 3.5 ft. I want to wrap the whole thing in fiberglass to make it watertight if possible. What size sheets does the fiberglass come in and how expensive are they? How many layers will be needed and how much resin? If the price gets up to around $500 i could just buy one.
Thank you in advance and let the knowledge flow forth.

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 11:03 pm
by munyoz70
why not just leave the plastic container in it as well and just use that?

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 11:09 pm
by novacaine
munyoz70 wrote:why not just leave the plastic container in it as well and just use that?

I don't think the plastic will hold the earth load (wet mucky dirt). If the container slides in then it will pop up like a cork (where i plan on putting it). I guess i could keep the plastic in and ziptie it to the rails to use as a form.

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 11:20 pm
by munyoz70
I would dig your hole, put the tote in it then put some treated plywood around the four sides of the tote then backfill. Those totes hold from 250-330 gallons of over 10lb per gallon chemical... Short of an earthquake I wouldnt think that they would give in

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 12:31 am
by BR549
How you plan to anchor it in the ground? They will pop up like a cork! The big ones hold about 250. The frame will hold the dirt back no problem. The problem is getting it to stay in the ground! Zip ties aint gonna hold it!

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 8:30 am
by munyoz70
He could leave part of the frame on top and that might would hold it it, with either some rebar bent into hooks and spiked into the ground or some 2x4s run thru the pallet part with some length hung out to back fill on. As for containers the standard size is 250 but 330 and even a few 500 are not that uncommon

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 12:58 pm
by duckkiller
water weighs 8.34 lbs/gallon, I can feel pretty comfortable in saying that those "plastic" sides will hold up

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 1:18 pm
by novacaine
duckkiller wrote:water weighs 8.34 lbs/gallon, I can feel pretty comfortable in saying that those "plastic" sides will hold up

Once you cut the top out of the plastic tank you have an entirely different force acting on the system. I am really trying to make a rigid fiberglass frame that i can install and take out every year. Whatever is made, i can anchor it in the ground (been doing structural and geotech work for about 20 + yrs).
I wanted to use the rigid frame of the tank container as a frame work for attaching fiberglass but i know less than squat about fiberglass. I can reinforce the framework with lifting eyes for ease of removal after season is over. I have been looking at the "one man pit blinds" on line as an example. Just thought i would try another project- once i figure out this fiberglass thing.
Thanks

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 5:24 pm
by BBR12
Do a search for boat supplies or fiberglass for boats. It is fairly expensive to do fiberglass. I was just looking at some for a pirogue. The resin runs anywhere from $90 to $150 a gallon and there are all types of fiberglass weaves, mats, etc.. I built a plywood pirogue a few yrs ago and just fiberglassed the seams and open edges of the ply and I think i used about 1/2 a gallon of resin. You may want to think about just putting a wooden frame inside the plastic container for support against the outside pressure. You could also use a outdoor plywood to wrap the frame and then put a layer of fiberglass on it to waterproof it and seal it up tight. I dont think you can do it with just the frame and fiberglass. It would take many layers of fiberglass I would think to make it ridgid enough to stand up which would be expensive. If you do decide to use fiberglass make sure you get the slow setting resin and measure it correctly or you will have a mess on your hands.

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 11:06 am
by Scully
USComposites have the best online prices for glass and resin. If you use the glass over 1/4 plywood it will cut your cost down, but you still may be pushing the 500 mark.

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:33 am
by gamehog
I've bought fiberglassing products from these folks before and they've always been helpful and provide good advice. You might want to give them a call.

www.raka.com

I'm guessing you'll really need to lay the fiberglass onto something (maybe like thin plywood sides for your blind?).

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 6:23 pm
by novacaine
Thanks guys- I took a closer look at one of the frames yesterday and i think your right- i won't be able to put the glass directly on the frame. I have access to some marine plywood and will probably go that route once i get a good cost estimate on the supplies.

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:31 am
by JaMak84
Would a 48" corrugated plastic pipe give you enough room for a one man blind? It's already sealed and is rigid enough to hold the presure. You could cut it into 4' sections and all you'd need to do is find a way to put a bottom and top on it. Hell, back in high school my brother and I made a couple out of old waste management garbage cans. Already had a sealed bottom and a flip top cover. Of course I wasn't as wide then and comfort was necessarily a concern, but they worked well for us.

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:31 am
by MudHog
JaMak84 wrote:Would a 48" corrugated plastic pipe give you enough room for a one man blind? It's already sealed and is rigid enough to hold the presure. You could cut it into 4' sections and all you'd need to do is find a way to put a bottom and top on it. Hell, back in high school my brother and I made a couple out of old waste management garbage cans. Already had a sealed bottom and a flip top cover. Of course I wasn't as wide then and comfort was necessarily a concern, but they worked well for us.


sealed bottom isn't a problem. Most pepole build the sewage system lift stations out of corrugated pipe. They fill the bottom up with about 6 or 8 inches of cement and then bury in the ground. Water drains into it from the field drain and then gets pumped out to a ditch. Got one at my house as a matter of fact for my sewage plant. It has a cement lid that just fits on top, which could be done any way that is needed.

Re: Working with fiberglass

Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 2:08 pm
by novacaine
MudHog wrote:
JaMak84 wrote:Would a 48" corrugated plastic pipe give you enough room for a one man blind? It's already sealed and is rigid enough to hold the presure. You could cut it into 4' sections and all you'd need to do is find a way to put a bottom and top on it. Hell, back in high school my brother and I made a couple out of old waste management garbage cans. Already had a sealed bottom and a flip top cover. Of course I wasn't as wide then and comfort was necessarily a concern, but they worked well for us.


sealed bottom isn't a problem. Most pepole build the sewage system lift stations out of corrugated pipe. They fill the bottom up with about 6 or 8 inches of cement and then bury in the ground. Water drains into it from the field drain and then gets pumped out to a ditch. Got one at my house as a matter of fact for my sewage plant. It has a cement lid that just fits on top, which could be done any way that is needed.


Good point JaMak. I have seen the cpp pipes with a plastic plate sonic welded over the bottom. The one i saw was 36" but i am sure i can find someone to do a larger one. Back when i saw it- the largest cpp N-12 wall that was made was 42". The 48" if available would probably hold my big booty.

The trash container also sounds pretty cool. I would have to buy a new one though. The thought of a used one just gives me the shivers.