Texas Rigged Decoys
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Texas Rigged Decoys
If anyone is using the "Texas Rig" for thier decoys, what is the best length of line to use? And is it really worth the time to re-rig all the decoys?
Re: Texas Rigged Decoys
I started with 100 yds.If anyone is using the "Texas Rig" for thier decoys, what is the best length of line to use?

Actually (all kidding aside), I just rigged some teal decoys for use in 2' of water. I made the strings 3-1/2 feet long. I think there is a rule of thumb that you want your decoy strings 1-1/2 times the depth of water. It really depends on the water depth where you're planning to hunt, obviously.
My wife thinks it might be - it was her idea. I'll find-out if it was worth it, tomorrow. The idea is to save time and all that line adjusting and wrapping we normally do. She hates to pick-up decoys. The downside is if we want to use those decoys in deeper water, we'll have to go back to the strap anchor and longer line around the keel. You can make several different sets of T-rigs at different depths, but if the line length gets close to your own height, it could be a problem carrying themAnd is it really worth the time to re-rig all the decoys?

Re: Texas Rigged Decoys
It save alot of time putting out/taking up decoys. I have some that are on 5 to 6 foot lines. I tie 2 overhand knots in the string- one by the decoy and one by the loop end- to keep them managable. They are great in shallow water or if you hunt a known water depth. I used them on area I plan to wade and have traditional rigged decoys for boat use.
He said" The sheriff is near"
Re: Texas Rigged Decoys
[quote="Anatidae"]My wife thinks it might be - it was her idea.[quote]
'nuff said...at least that is what i've come to believe... right or wrong. but i am married to 'little miss can't be wrong = lmcbw' and she knows exactly what those 5 letters mean when i say them...
'nuff said...at least that is what i've come to believe... right or wrong. but i am married to 'little miss can't be wrong = lmcbw' and she knows exactly what those 5 letters mean when i say them...
Re: Texas Rigged Decoys
When it comes to hunting, she knows what she's talking about and I am receptive to my 'hunting partners' ideas. I may not agree all the time, but being receptive and humble balances any relationship.
The best way to elicit the rath of a woman is to NOT validate (to them) the importance of their existence. I'm still refining that art. I suppose the best way to approach that is to put yourself in their shoes......not the shoes of a woman, but the shoes of another human being.
On the T-rigs, I used 80# mono as an experiment. It may be a disaster. It is more conducive to 'tangling' than the 300 mono. I tried ganging a dozen decoys, then twisting the whole gangline, then tying overhand knots to take-up the slack. It looked like that would kink the individual lines (making them more susceptible to tangling), so I just have the loop end secure with a caribiner. I'm still skeptical as to how well it will work for transport in the boat.
I also went with the clear mono line because I think thick black lines are extremely visible in shallow water. I have offered and heard the comment, "By the time they get close enough to see the decoy lines, it'll be too late." I agree with that to some extent. I guess it depends on how close you want them.
Case in point: Hunting a timber hole, trying to work early-season, call-shy, decoy-shy birds. It's pretty easy to fool a single or a pair under normal circumstances, right? Let's say you've got a pair working, then another group of 8 birds gets in the approach pattern behind or above them. The first pair drops down and is back-peddling.....the others are still circling out of range. Common sense tells you to let the pair land in hopes the larger group will follow suit - then you got 10 'potential' targets.
But if the pair sees something they don't like - and bail-out' either before touch-down or before the other birds commit and get close enough for most practical purposes - then you only have 2 potential targets.
That's the sort of stuff that makes hunting what it is.......a game of wits and fooling your prey. The reward is to get'em where you want'em and deciding whether to shoot'em or observe the marvels of waterfowl in an otherwise natural setting....not gizmos, or who has more gizmos than the next guy.
No black line for me (of course there are usually multiple other variables which can cause ducks NOT to commit). Happy Hunting
The best way to elicit the rath of a woman is to NOT validate (to them) the importance of their existence. I'm still refining that art. I suppose the best way to approach that is to put yourself in their shoes......not the shoes of a woman, but the shoes of another human being.
On the T-rigs, I used 80# mono as an experiment. It may be a disaster. It is more conducive to 'tangling' than the 300 mono. I tried ganging a dozen decoys, then twisting the whole gangline, then tying overhand knots to take-up the slack. It looked like that would kink the individual lines (making them more susceptible to tangling), so I just have the loop end secure with a caribiner. I'm still skeptical as to how well it will work for transport in the boat.
I also went with the clear mono line because I think thick black lines are extremely visible in shallow water. I have offered and heard the comment, "By the time they get close enough to see the decoy lines, it'll be too late." I agree with that to some extent. I guess it depends on how close you want them.
Case in point: Hunting a timber hole, trying to work early-season, call-shy, decoy-shy birds. It's pretty easy to fool a single or a pair under normal circumstances, right? Let's say you've got a pair working, then another group of 8 birds gets in the approach pattern behind or above them. The first pair drops down and is back-peddling.....the others are still circling out of range. Common sense tells you to let the pair land in hopes the larger group will follow suit - then you got 10 'potential' targets.
But if the pair sees something they don't like - and bail-out' either before touch-down or before the other birds commit and get close enough for most practical purposes - then you only have 2 potential targets.
That's the sort of stuff that makes hunting what it is.......a game of wits and fooling your prey. The reward is to get'em where you want'em and deciding whether to shoot'em or observe the marvels of waterfowl in an otherwise natural setting....not gizmos, or who has more gizmos than the next guy.
No black line for me (of course there are usually multiple other variables which can cause ducks NOT to commit). Happy Hunting
Re: Texas Rigged Decoys
They work great. I use old flambeau with water keels for long walks. They work great
- Faithful Retrievers
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Re: Texas Rigged Decoys
I have used weed eater string last year on some and regular no tangle on a few which breaks after a while. When it gets later in the season and we are picking up and moving dekes in the field its works great. Its nice to be able to hang them over in the pit. Now if I had a select number of dekes and had to have them for diff locations, prob not the best idea. If you need to be mobile in shallow water its the best way to go.
http://www.grizzlyjig.com
"Better to have people think your a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt"- Mark Twain
"Better to have people think your a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt"- Mark Twain
Re: Texas Rigged Decoys
It did not work well for me. The water levels are too different in the different timber and rivers we hunt.
Rusty Parsons
Re: Texas Rigged Decoys
awesome for shallow water, keep a dozen per bag so they don't get tangled. don't try them for water deeper than 3 or 4 feet.
This is no longer a vacation, this is a quest, a quest for fun---Chevy Chase.
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