duck hunting choke

fowler86 · Postby **fowler86** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:28 pm

What is the best all around duck hunting choke for a bennelli super black eagle and browning gold? brilley, pattern master, kicks etc. improv, mod, etc.

duckkiller · Postby **duckkiller** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:47 pm

Well I think its personal preference but I shoot a Kicks high flyer full out of my Browning Gold

dukcommander · Postby **dukcommander** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 10:12 pm

I shoot a kicks high flyer x-full in a benelli SBE II , shoots about like a modified with lead.

Postby **Greenhead22** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 11:03 pm

Briley Extended Light Mod, use it all season, whether it's 15 yds or 50.

Why are you guys using full and x-full with steel? Reason I'm asking is do you know what that's doing to your barrel, plus your choke? That pattern is so tight that the shot is so constricted to where you have pellets knocking down each other, plus the delayed wad seperation knocking the pattern all out of wack. Maybe I'm misunderstading the mic constriction terminology that Kick's it using concerning their duck chokes because steel patterns at least 50% tighter than lead. Steel with mod produces a full pattern and so on. An extra full choke with steel will give you pattern that I don't think is even name yet. :lol:

The tighter your choke, the more fps velocity you lose with steel, and speed is the main factor when it comes to knockdown power.

Ducks be us · Postby **Ducks be us** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 6:23 am

I use my factory Modified for steel...Id head to the range and pattern some paper BEFORE buying an aftermarket choke that ya probably dont need :wink:

jdbuckshot · Postby **jdbuckshot** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 6:30 am

i just shoot my factory modified choke out of my sbe, i dont have any problem killing ducks!

quakwacker · Postby **quakwacker** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 6:32 am

Kicks or patternmaster either one would be an excellent choice.

cwink · Postby **cwink** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:23 am

The 'No Choke' Choke is the best one on the market.. This choke has nothing to do with shot constiction, but rather practice, confidence and patience. IMO, The shooter has more to do with the actual kill than the choke.

Anatidae · Postby **Anatidae** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 3:28 pm

I use the Oval Choke by Eccentric Inovation Laboratories, Inc.

It's still in the filed testing stages. It's a screw-in choke that converts your round pattern to an oblong one.

The beauty is......if you have an incoming target, you just reach up there and twist the choke one way or the other, to make your shotstring tall/narrow. Then, if you get a crossing target, you reach up there and twist the choke to where it throws a short/wide pattern. It's fully adjustable for quartering targets as well. :wink:

.........really novel concept....and works well, provided you have at least one finger and an opposing thumb remaining.

chevy01234 · Postby **chevy01234** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 5:30 pm

I love my kicks highflyer choke. Alot of the guys I hunt with shoot them as well.

Jeff · Postby **Jeff** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 5:54 pm

I use the one that is has been rusted into the end of my barrell for the past six years. I think it's modified, but I'm not sure. All I know it's trip hammer dead when I put the bead where it's supposed to be. Mine is nothing fancy, just what came with the gun. I have some freinds that are OUTSTANDING shots and they use kicks chokes. I would probably try one, but as stated earlier mine has spent over six years welding itself into the end of my barrell.

Postby **Greenhead22** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 6:45 pm

Jeff, heat up some 30 weight oil and soak the end of the barrel for about 10 min, works like a charm.

duckkiller · Postby **duckkiller** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 6:49 pm

Jeff wrote:I use the one that is has been rusted into the end of my barrell for the past six years. I think it's modified, but I'm not sure. All I know it's trip hammer dead when I put the bead where it's supposed to be. Mine is nothing fancy, just what came with the gun. I have some freinds that are OUTSTANDING shots and they use kicks chokes. I would probably try one, but as stated earlier mine has spent over six years welding itself into the end of my barrell.

Well you can always take an ease-out and put it down in the choke and I promise you it will pull it out, but it will tear up the choke. I had one rusted up for about 1 year and thats all I could use to get it out, I tried everything and finally the mechanic at the brickyard told my dad to bring it to him and he would get it out and he did

oltcutdown · Postby **oltcutdown** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 8:52 pm

.........really novel concept....and works well, provided you have at least one finger and an opposing thumb remaining.

I think my family lost the opposing thumb a couple thousand years ago... :lol:

I don't know what to tell you about an all around duck hunting choke, but for me an improved modified or a modified factory Beretta choke is hard to beat. For smacking light geese, I'd recommend a patternmaster.

How do you hunt most of the time? I know when I hunt the woods, I'm shooting a cylinder bore or a skeet choke with 3" #4s, and in the fields I'm bad to shoot high velocity 3" #3's or 2's.

jacksbuddy · Postby **jacksbuddy** » Thu Sep 21, 2006 2:14 pm

Regarding chokes, I'd check with the manufacturer specs real carefully before buying an aftermarket item. (Remember, this is a firearm going off pretty darn close to your head.) As for me, I use a full choke for steel in a Mossberg for waterfowl, the usual chokes for everything else. Just my $0.02. - JH

duck hunting choke

duck hunting choke

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