Blind project

[JDgator]

Looks great! For more stability and flotation, you might consider oil drums. They aren't exactly expensive. And you could tack weld a little outrigger-type setup for them that is attached after you get it in place. Pontoons tend to lean to one side or the other, and it would help balance. Another thought is to add spud poles for staking in place. Keep up the pictures!

[teul2]

Took a 1/2 day for my birthday and went home. Couldn't help but but work on it.
Had to grind the head off every bolt. It sucked.





But, I got all the boards off, and all the outside screws grounded down. Now to get the foam in the toons.


Question for you all. It was decked in 3/4 marine plywood. I'm thinking of decking it in 2x4s as I know it will last longer, and be stronger. But the ribs are 12 on centers. So, I think it will work just as good with 1x4. I will space them so it will allow drainage, it will keep the weight down, and I'll be able to use the original aluminum trim around the edge.

Do you think 1x4 treated will be fine for the floor with 12 inch center "studs" to attach to?

[Barq's]

I wouldn't consider anything less than a 1 1/4" deck board....1x4 won't hold up and after the day is over, you don't want to have to be replacing boards after just a year. my .02...
St.

[MudHog]

I was going to suggest 5/4 deck boards too. Remember to butt the boards up tight when securing them. As they dry, cracks will form. Starting with cracks will only make for much larger cracks once the boards dry out.

You can generally find large foam blocks on ebay and those would work better than steel barrels.

[Trip]

Why not try and get some small expanded metal?

[Barq's]

whatever you do....make sure that you put the crown down, so they don't cup and hold water.....I always forget at some point and have to catch myself.

[Anatidae]

I agree with 5/4"x6" (actual thickness is 1") radius-edge treated decking as opposed to 2x4 treated. I also agree with butted-up tight and cup down. I would use 3 screws per board width and would suggest trying to find material that's been under a roof.....not stored out in the open.

Lumber companies can also take 3/4" CD plywood and send it off the have it treated. Some stores keep this product in stock. I wouldn't hesitate to use it in place of the 5/4 r.e. treated decking for ease of installation, fewer screws, expense and weight difference. Put a #12 coated nail between the joints to space the sheets for draining.

[MudHog]

Why not try and get some small expanded metal?

I had thought about that too, but then thought about the exposure of the toons through the expanded metal. He'd have to paint the toons then to not have the aluminum showing. Plus expanded metal will cost more than the lumber.

[teul2]

We were going to go with aluminum sheets, but it's just to costly. Haven't priced expanded metal, will do that. The whole thing will be painted, even if it is covered by blind, so shine won't be an issue.
I want to stay away from the plywood as this blind may never leave the water again. So, individual boards will be easier to replace in the woods should the need arise and will drain water better.

[Trip]

If I ever do another one, it'll have expanded metal floor and old tin for the walls and roof like the last one.

[novacaine]

Wont expanded metal be tough on a dogs paw? Not a hunting dog owner so just a thought.

[Trip]

Wont expanded metal be tough on a dogs paw? Not a hunting dog owner so just a thought.

If not covered it sure would. I don't have a do either so I didn't think about that.

[Anatidae]

'Bad for toenails to get hung-up in, but if dog stayed on his perch and dog ladder decked with wood, I wouldn't think it'd be an issue.

[JimAire]

Expanded metal is a bad idea on this blind set up. It will ruin the dogs feet and it will be noisy against the aluminum cross braces.

[7ducks]

We were going to go with aluminum sheets, but it's just to costly. Haven't priced expanded metal, will do that. The whole thing will be painted, even if it is covered by blind, so shine won't be an issue.
I want to stay away from the plywood as this blind may never leave the water again. So, individual boards will be easier to replace in the woods should the need arise and will drain water better.

I like your thinking with the individual boards ..we had one back in the 70s built with the plywood and almost destroyed the boat trying to replace it ......when u paint put plenty of sand down those 2/4 will get slick....Also the styrofoam blocks some suggested worked well for us to provide the extra stability.