Yard Chemical Question

[Lazy Drake]

I sprayed my yard this weekend. I got the chemicals at the local co op. I sprayed Simazine 4L this weekend as my pre emergent. I mixed it 3 oz to a gallon. Is there a better way to mix the chemicals, besides shaking the tank. The simazine was milky and was stopping up the strainer on my sprayer.

I also got some Trimec Southern to spray next month. The mixing rate on it is also 3 oz to a gallon. Do the mixing rates seem right? Can you mix round up with Trimec?

They suggest spraying MSMA in may, will it be warm enough to spary then?

Just looking for any suggestions you might have. I decided to spray the yard myself, got tired of Trugreen ripping me off and still having a ton of weeds. I have bermuda grass.

Thanks

[chopper30]

I don't know the answers, but am curious as I have bermuda and am looking to nuke the weeds now and know it's not warm enough for my MSMA

[4dawgma]

just burn it off, works great!

[duckkiller]

The key is to have a sprayer that has an aggitater in it, and if you dont have one then the only way I know to do it is to mix a little at a time like you did. The rates seem right, and as far as MSMA in May, well thats close to right, just watch the weather and let the highs be in the 80's for a few consecutive days.

[SFDdelta1]

round up it now while your bermuda is dormant

you can mix the trimec with the msma and spray them together but you need it to be in the mid 80's for the msma to work. U also do not want to mix the msma to much becuase it will knock your bermuda back if its in the 90's . As long as it under 90 we usaly spray our yard at 3 ounces to a gallon.

E

[Deagle]

Mix 2 ounces trimec with 1 ounce roundup.

[Bababooey]

Can you spray roundup now on the green weeds growing and not kill the dormant centipede? If you can them I am going to do that tomorrow but I don't want to kill all of my grass.

someone give me the yes or no on this.

[duckkiller]

As long as the grass is dormant it will not take up the chem. you are spraying. However if the grass/weed is alive and cycling then it will kill it

[Deagle]

My neighbor uses that combo, and he has been spraying that combo the past few days. So, I say yes.

[Waboduck]

I just sprayed my yard with roundup last week. I have bermuda and just built my house in the middle of a pasture that has had 35 years worth of chicken fertlizer applied to it so I have weeds galore. The roundup took 10 days to show that it was working as the weeds were hit with some cold weather about the same time I sprayed them. Today my yard is brown with the field surrounding it bright green.
I have a great friend that got his Turf Management degree from MSU and he is helping me via emails and visits at Church when he comes home. Next I plan to broadcast weed and feed then later in March I will spray some Barricade.
We hope to have my yard in great shape in 2 years.
Thanks for posting ya'lls info up as it is helping me get my brain around killing my weeds. I could hardly cut my grass last year for all the green weeds. I also learned that you must cut bermuda low so it will run along the ground and not grow upwards so the weeds can easily come through.

[jcthorne]

January-Mid Feb Pendimethalin or Barricade as a pre emerge for Bermuda..... (If you have a lot of broadleafs add 2-4 in ester form to this tank) Do not use ester in warm temps.....go with amide formulation) Spot spray winter grassy weeds with Round-up, image, or atrazine. Atrazine takes license to buy.
Late Feb- middle of March- Pendimethalin or Barricade as pre emerge and add a 3 -Way such as "Tri-Mec 992, Vessel, etc. as a post emerge broadleaf weed control. (you can spray the pre emerge as split apps but they need to equal full rate for year recommended for bermuda)
Mid April- Fertilize and spot spray MSMA if temps are warm enough to control summer perinnial weeds such as Dallas grass, foxtail, johnson, etc. Use a good slow release fertilizer for extended feeding. If you want a quick green up tank mix urea or apply ammonia nitrate. Fertilzer derived from urea is better in my opinion. It also may take multiple spot spray application 2 weeks apart to control tough perinnials such as dallas grass.
June-July Slow realease fertilizer and spot spray MSMA as needed. Nutsedge may be present at this time. Use Sedgehammer and a surfactant to control the sedges. Purple nutsedge and green kylinga is much harder to control than yellow nutsedge and may take multiple applications as well. Reduce water on yard to help prevent the nutsedge if it's a problem. If you know a rice farmer.....get some Permit. Same thing as sedgehammer but much cheaper.
July-August- Slow release fertilzer and same steps as above for June-July
Late September-October Pre emerge such as simazine or barricade for control of winter grasses and broadleafs. If poa annua is your major winter weed go with Barricade. If garlic and onions are your major concern go with simazine. Add potash for root development and winter food storage.
November-Dec Lime ----this is very important to the health of your turf and it's often skipped or improperly applied. You want your PH level to be in the 6.5 to 7 range.

Note- Round-up is not the cheapest or best option to control weeds and i would not recommend spraying MSMA and 2-4d together as noted in a previous post. Those 2 chemicals should be applied at seperate times of the year and they are weed specific. Applying together is a waste of money. One will work and the other will not depending on temps and weeds present.

The key to a great yard is pre emerge. You want to prevent weed seeds from germinating thus not having to use MSMA other than for spot applications on Perinneal weeds that don't dye each year (ex.. crab grass is an annual weed and should be controlled using pre emergent ex...dallis grass is a perinnial that cannot be prevented by pre emerge applications) Pre emergent needs to be applied before soil temps get in the 50's because your unwanted summer grassy weeds will start germinating at this time.

[duckkiller]

Note- Round-up is not the cheapest or best option to control weeds and i would not recommend spraying MSMA and 2-4d together as noted in a previous post. Those 2 chemicals should be applied at seperate times of the year and they are weed specific. Applying together is a waste of money. One will work and the other will not depending on temps and weeds present.

The key to a great yard is pre emerge. You want to prevent weed seeds from germinating thus not having to use MSMA other than for spot applications on Perinneal weeds that don't dye each year (ex.. crab grass is an annual weed and should be controlled using pre emergent ex...dallis grass is a perinnial that cannot be prevented by pre emerge applications) Pre emergent needs to be applied before soil temps get in the 50's because your unwanted summer grassy weeds will start germinating at this time.[/quote]



Some very good info here. I know there is allot of you on here that like playing w/ grass ect.. I would highly recomend a book called Best Management Practices for Golf Courses by Bert McCarty. It is a very in depth book and can be somewhat hard to read and understand if you dont have any background in Soil and Turf. However it is like any other book he rights, as it is very good and well worth the money. For those of you who have never heard of him L.B. Bert McCarty is a very well known and highly respectable person in the turf industry. Several if not all turf programs use his books as text books. Im not sure what it cost as the edition I have was signed by Mr. McCarty and given to me by my boss from my last internship, but if I had to guess I would say its b/t $150-$200. Once again very good book and goes into great detail.

[jcthorne]

I just sprayed my yard with roundup last week. I have bermuda and just built my house in the middle of a pasture that has had 35 years worth of chicken fertlizer applied to it so I have weeds galore. The roundup took 10 days to show that it was working as the weeds were hit with some cold weather about the same time I sprayed them. Today my yard is brown with the field surrounding it bright green.
I have a great friend that got his Turf Management degree from MSU and he is helping me via emails and visits at Church when he comes home. Next I plan to broadcast weed and feed then later in March I will spray some Barricade.
We hope to have my yard in great shape in 2 years.
Thanks for posting ya'lls info up as it is helping me get my brain around killing my weeds. I could hardly cut my grass last year for all the green weeds. I also learned that you must cut bermuda low so it will run along the ground and not grow upwards so the weeds can easily come through.

You're wasting your money with the Weed and Feed. Stay away from the Home Depot chemicals. You're also waiting to long to spray the Barricade. I would be spraying it right now and then again in march as i stated above. Apply a split application to equal the rated lbs. per acre for bermuda as the label specifies. This will give you good residual control throughout the year.
Also remember that your going to have to get rid of your perennial grasses with post emerge in the summer. Then hopefully the pre emerge will prevent new perinnial seeds from germenating.
Two growing seasons is about right to clean up a "country yard" but remember the spring and winter pre emerge applications are critical for a good yard especially when having a pasture surrounding you.

[dukbum]

just put a levee around it throw out some millet and then a little fertlizer after its bout 3 to 4 inches and watch her grow dont forget to water it if needed i also recomend a pit blind so it doesnt stick out so bad if you put in your front yard the wife will thank you also a plus if you live in one of those fancy neighborhoods too to make sure its brushed year round to hide it happy yarding.....now back to beers and spying

[Sawblade]

I actually have a degree in Turfgrass but never worked in the turf industry so I've forgotten a lot of what I learned. Can't believe I've gotta ask this question, but.....What can I use to spot treat for common bermuda in a centipede lawn? Also, what is a good pre-emergent for centipede?