Looking for powerstroke diesel info...

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Chuckle12
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Postby Chuckle12 » Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:09 pm

JDgator wrote:I respect ya'lls right to drive whatever truck you want, but just don't ever complain about rising fuel prices if you have a powerstoke diesel engine and only pulling a ton or two. A minivan could probably do that.


So what kind of gas mileage does your minivan get? :lol:
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Postby h2o_dog » Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:23 pm

My '99 F250 w/7.3L PSD = 245hp (before the diablo programmer)
My wifes '05 Honda Odyssey mininvan V6 = 255hp (will scoot!)

go figure
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Postby JDgator » Sun Jul 16, 2006 10:08 pm

Chuckle12 wrote:
So what kind of gas mileage does your minivan get? :lol:


Dude, I literally drove my mom's old minivan for a year in highschool. Not a chick magnet but it pulled a trailer ok. I have a '91 nissan pickup with the four-banger now. The paint is peeling off the top of the cab and the A/C is busted but it runs like a champ. I should post pics of it somewhere. Somehow I still hunt ducks with it =)
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Postby MudHog » Mon Jul 17, 2006 6:14 am

h2o_dog wrote:My '99 F250 w/7.3L PSD = 245hp (before the diablo programmer)
My wifes '05 Honda Odyssey mininvan V6 = 255hp (will scoot!)

go figure


Compare the torque numbers.


People keep thinking Diesel is HP. This is why the newer diesel have a freaking redline of upper 30's.

Compare the true power of a diesel and you'll see the difference. Don't just look at the HP numbers, look at the @ rpm rating too. You'll quickly find that the diesel is at a MUCH lower rpm.

For the minivan hauling 4000 pounds, I want to see that happen and also see what kind of mileage it gets. I'm not talking about 4000 pounds on a trailer with only 500 tounge weight. I'm talking 4000 pounds sitting inside on the floor or on top the roof. Hauling something on a trailer is WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY different than hauling it in the vehicles. You can have a 36' Contendor boat and set the axles to where a VW Bug can pull it.
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Postby h2o_dog » Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:45 am

MudHog wrote:Compare the true power of a diesel and you'll see the difference. Don't just look at the HP numbers, look at the @ rpm rating too.


Absolutely. Towing is all about TORQUE. That Honda minivan is out-of-warranty if you install a receiver hitch without the tranny cooler...and you'll have tranny problems anyway... :wink:
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Postby JDgator » Mon Jul 17, 2006 11:41 am

MudHog wrote:
For the minivan hauling 4000 pounds, I want to see that happen and also see what kind of mileage it gets.


See the 2002 dodge caravan, v6 and its rated to tow 3,500:

http://newcartestdrive.com/printversion ... iewID=1006

MudHog wrote:I'm not talking about 4000 pounds on a trailer with only 500 tounge weight. I'm talking 4000 pounds sitting inside on the floor or on top the roof. Hauling something on a trailer is WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY different than hauling it in the vehicles.


The guy in the first post says he maybe occasionally tows 2,000 - 3000 lbs. Thats what i am refering to.

Im sorry but I still thinks it funny when a guy takes his diesel to walmart for a bag of groceries and some plywood from lowes. I have no doubt that these monster diesels can moves tons, but I think they are overkill for the average joe. And who besides farmers & contractors loads 4,000 pounds of anything INSIDE their truck on a regular basis?
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Postby hillhunter » Mon Jul 17, 2006 12:41 pm

my dad has an F-250 powerstroke. we use it to hual hay with a gooseneck trailer towing 6 2,000 lb bales at one time. has always pulled good and the only thing I have complained about is the rubber bushings in the front end which seem to go out once a year, but atleast they're only $7 apiece and are easy to install.
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Postby MudHog » Mon Jul 17, 2006 1:42 pm

JDgator wrote:
MudHog wrote:
For the minivan hauling 4000 pounds, I want to see that happen and also see what kind of mileage it gets.


See the 2002 dodge caravan, v6 and its rated to tow 3,500:

http://newcartestdrive.com/printversion ... iewID=1006

MudHog wrote:I'm not talking about 4000 pounds on a trailer with only 500 tounge weight. I'm talking 4000 pounds sitting inside on the floor or on top the roof. Hauling something on a trailer is WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY different than hauling it in the vehicles.


The guy in the first post says he maybe occasionally tows 2,000 - 3000 lbs. Thats what i am refering to.

Im sorry but I still thinks it funny when a guy takes his diesel to walmart for a bag of groceries and some plywood from lowes. I have no doubt that these monster diesels can moves tons, but I think they are overkill for the average joe. And who besides farmers & contractors loads 4,000 pounds of anything INSIDE their truck on a regular basis?


I agree with you in the sense that there's way to many soccer moms driving diesels around. It was a national icon for a while and it hit every brand.

On the other hand, I'd rather see alot of large trucks on the road instead of seeing people pulling these large campers or boats with a 1/2 ton truck. Alot of people just don't realize that should they get in a accident, they can and would be held legally responsible for anything that occured. They are hauling over their rated capacity. Most people just think if they can pull it, they are fine to go where they want.

I presonally have hauled alot of "stuff" with my truck. I had an ATV club about a year ago and for 3 years we rode all over LA, MS and TX atleast two weekends a month with a group of 10-15 people. 75% of those trips there was a 25' gooseneck flatbed with (7) ATVs loaded onto it. Just recently for the hurricane, buddy's property got flooded. Had a trailer sitting under his garage with (5) pallets of 3/8" OSB. 2 out of those 5 were soaking wet from the flood. He called me to pull it out and bring it to a friend of his. This bumper pull trailer had a 2-5/16" ball for the hitch and dual 12k pound axles. Hooked it up and pulled it right to his other location. The list can go on and on. Some people just have use for their trucks.


Now on the minivan again. Towing Capacity has nothing to do with GVWR. I have a 9600 GVWR F350 and it weighs in on the scales at 7600. That's right at 2000 pounds that I can put inside the bed and haul it. Latch a trailer to it and I can "tow" 20k pounds easy on a gooseneck.


Again, I agree with you in saying that there are to many "wasted" diesels on the road. IMO, I think diesel prices rose due to the popularity in diesels. There's more of them on the road, so they can make more money. I can say this too. I've pulled my 19' bayboat with both my truck and a '01 F150 super crew w/ a 5.4L v8. I'd MUCH rather have my truck. Yes, the 150 can pull it and does pull it

I would be willing to bet that alot of contractors and farmers on the road are all running the roads over-weight too. I know my company had issues with that and they actually had to take tools out to put their trucks on a diet.
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Postby goosebruce » Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:07 pm

Excellent point, to a certain degree. But I said from the very beginging, I WANTED a diesel. And I wanted a truck that'd last 200k. 200k means 3/4 ton truck nowadays, and you ever drove a crew cab 4wd 3/4 ton gas truck? They suck. That bad booty minivan yur talking about could out run one. Unless you get a big block, and then your talking 8 mpg. A 3/4 ton diesel gets the milage a 1/2 ton gas truck does. 31k for a 1/2 ton that I'd have worn out before its paid for, or 38k for a 3/4 that hauls booty and will hopefully last 200k miles. My last truck was a t100 with 225k on it, and if they made a brand new one of those (in japan) a little bigger with a v8, id been all over it. They dont. So I bought a ford. And it hauls booty. Its quiet on the road, rides as fine as any pickup on this earth, and it could tow everything I own, all at one time. hehe. Diesel may cost what gas does now, but Im still getting better mileage than i was, and of all the many trucks Ive owned, its the second best milage of any of them. Plus theres something (actually a LOT) to be said about towing a trailer with the cruise set on 90 mph, in overdrive, and being able to talk on a cell phone easily while doing it.

Talked to a buddy of mine that writes service at a local ford dealer. He said dont do it. Headgaskets popping left and right, on the hopped up trucks. Said 06 was defiently the best year of the 6.0, but felt it wasnt worth the risk to the headgasket to 'chip' it. And thats knowing he'd fix it for me if it blew. He agreed on my opinion on the intake, and said cat back on the exhaust, which is what Im leaning toward any way. Hoping they got a problem with the headgaskets, and if they come up with 'new' headgaskets, maybe I'll do it then. Thanks for the help though guys. travis
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Postby MudHog » Mon Jul 17, 2006 9:06 pm

I haven't kept up in the 6.0L forums, but I haven't heard of gasket problems in the 6.0L. Now the 7.3L are for sure known to have head gasket problems, but that a problem well after the breaking point of the engine. Meaning after a 100HP chip, higher injectors, bigger turbo, etc. It's pretty known that the 7.3L can safely make 450HP and not have major mechanical issues. I've seen the 6.0L have this coolant problem back in the early years of it's exisitance, but nothing since the later years. I mentioned this before, the '06 model year is the last year of the 6.0L that I'm aware of. Any last year production engine and/or vehicle is the best year. It's usually the highest rated vehicle and most dependable of all years. The maker would have had years to work out all the bugs and years to upgrade hp and rating from year to year. '07 will be a PITA year again with their new 6.4L. I bet it will make it's debut same as the first year Duramax and 6.0L Power Stroke, full of bugs and problems.


What intake and exhaust are you considering? If I may suggest some, it would be AFE for intake and MBRP for the exhaust.
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ford 250

Postby outlaw josey wales » Mon Jul 17, 2006 11:16 pm

get a superchip and dont fool with the flip since it changes parameters in the computer while driving and it frys it in a period of time. i got a superchips and magna flow exhaust on mine and it is perfect. i got alot of other $#!+ to race so we will keep the truck running like it is. the 6.0 has never had a head gasket problem but the radiator res cap were recalled and a weld on radiator bypass kept splittin and was recalled. i really dont know alot but i do work at a ford dealership everyday so i do know what i see and hear
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Re: ford 250

Postby MudHog » Tue Jul 18, 2006 6:05 am

outlaw josey wales wrote:get a superchip and dont fool with the flip since it changes parameters in the computer while driving and it frys it in a period of time. i got a superchips and magna flow exhaust on mine and it is perfect. i got alot of other *!@#@* to race so we will keep the truck running like it is. the 6.0 has never had a head gasket problem but the radiator res cap were recalled and a weld on radiator bypass kept splittin and was recalled. i really dont know alot but i do work at a ford dealership everyday so i do know what i see and hear


There's nothing wrong with the flip chips. Of the 6 years I've been in diesels and learning mods, I've sen nobody have a computer issue caused by the flip chip. Yes it does change the program, but it's all stored on the chip and doesn't actually change things in the computer on the fly.

Trust me, there are better tunes out there than Superchips or SCMT as it can be seen on forums. I will say this, stay away from Banks accessories. They have great gas engine stuff, but their diesel stuff is a little low in the barrel.
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Postby h2o_dog » Tue Jul 18, 2006 9:06 am

My early '99 model 7.3 had a chip in it when I bought it 4 years ago. The problem with the chip was that if it moved at all (vibration, etc.) the truck would shut down, and that can be problematic if you're in heavy traffic pulling something, your truck shuts off, you lose power steering and brakes, so you're kicking the firewall to get the chip to re-seat while shifting to neutral and turning the key. (Freaked my wife out for sure).

Thats why I got a Diablo tuner with 3 standard settings and the ability to customize the program. I keep mine in the standard 40HP towing setting all the time and like it fine. Sometimes if you hold the accelerator to the floor for 20 or more seconds the "service engine" light will come on until you back off. This happens more frequently with the higher HP settings, therefore I stay at 40. There's a 60HP setting for highway mileage (no tow) that I've tried, and another one that is 80 or 100HP for racing, but I've never used it, since they reccommend guages to prevent engine problems.

I pull a 10K pound travel trailer and never had any mechanical engine problems at all. I did lose the front seal in the transmission once, but mechanic assured me it wasn't due to the chip, and the transmission wasn't damaged at all - just a new seal and $100 worth of transmission fluid.

I can pull that trailer with the cruise set at 70mph in OD with no variation in speed regardless of any interstate grade I've ever encountered.
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Postby MudHog » Tue Jul 18, 2006 11:31 am

Did you put a piece of tape from the top of the PCM around the back side of the chip to the bottom of the PCM? This puts pressure on the chip and keeps it from backing away. Simple fix and chip never moves on you again.

Your SES light is from the overboost code being set. Your MAP sensor is seeing over 23 pounds of manifold pressure and throwing a code to your PCM which sets the SES light to come on. A Regulator inline from the turbo to the MAP sensor will always show no more than 20-22 psi to the MAP sensor. Also, when the SES light trips the PCM starts to defuel the truck and actually start making less power being it's injecting less fuel.

I'm with you on being able to pull any load in OD and not lose speed during changes in grade or in overpasses. I can pull my 19' boat and set cruise at 76 mph. Come to an overpass and see the boost psi start rising and the pyro climbing as well. Trucks making up for the change and it will do it all with engine and not downshift a gear.
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Postby h2o_dog » Tue Jul 18, 2006 12:18 pm

MudHog wrote:Did you put a piece of tape from the top of the PCM around the back side of the chip to the bottom of the PCM? This puts pressure on the chip and keeps it from backing away. Simple fix and chip never moves on you again.


It had 2" masking tape on it when I got it. I had to take it off to go in for warranty service, and I tried masking tape, duct tape, and packing tape after that and never could get it to hold tight.

Sorry Goosebruce for hijacking your thread. :)
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